Regulators in Europe are being ‘egged on’ to green light cultivated meat products, but there are consequences to consider. By David Burrows.
Joyless division. At the NFU conference last month, outgoing president Minette Batters described cultured, or cultivated, meat as part of a “joyless dystopian vision [that] can never replace the benefits of nutrient-rich food grown in soil with water and sunlight”.
Farmer worries. Research recently published by the Royal Agricultural University (RAU) explored what farmers think about these products. Among the issues raised were the public health effects of the new technology, how it could lead to consolidation of power in the food system, and how it might affect rural life. “Bringing cultured meat to market would be a momentous change to our diets and food system so, if we do it, we should be sure to have good grasp of the effects and any unintended consequences, including for farming and food systems,” said Tom MacMillan, who co-authored the paper and is leading research at RAU.
Scotch science. The UK government is keen on such technology, which boasts of lower emissions and land use than traditional burgers, nuggets and steaks. Only one approval for cultivated meat has so far been submitted to the Food Standards Agency (FSA),however, a number of UK companies are working in this space. Ivy Farm, from the UK, teamed up with Fortnum & Mason to create the “world’s first” cultivated meat Scotch egg – and served it to a few journalists in February.
Dutch courage. From January, cultivated meat firms in the Netherlands have been able to apply for such tastings to be approved. That’s almost 11-and-a-half years since the country unveiled the very first lab grown burger. That was made by Mosa Meat, which recently said there is “a lot of work to do” to make people feel comfortable with this technology and alleviate fears it will harm farmers (worth noting is RespectFarms in the Netherlands which is trying to get ahead of the game by building a cultivated meat farm that is supplied by local farmers).
After EU? MacMillan wants to see a “strategic and inclusive approach to the exploration of this technology, rather than simply egging it on and hoping for the best”. The companies innovating in this space – and those backing them to the tune of multiple billions – are getting a little tired of waiting for Europe to give products the green light. The EU seems split on what to do, with Italy attempting to ban the products. A number of member states recently raised concerns about the “threat” posed by this technology and questioned whether the environmental claims have been trumped up (which supporters shot down).
No, after US. Eyes are already turning to more favourable market development conditions in places like the US. “We’re very confident we will get approval from the US FDA [Food and Drug Administration], so we’re considering building our first manufacturing facility outside the UK,” Ed Steele, co-founder of UK lab-grown fat firm Hoxton Farms, told the FT. “That’s not what we want to do, but we need to do what’s best for the company.”
Brexit bonus? UK firms are wondering when the science powerhouse promised by Brexiters will materialise. “We will ensure that, in new and exciting areas with significant innovation such as digital markets, artificial intelligence, gene editing, cultivated meats and autonomous vehicles, we will deliver a distinct regulatory framework that provides an economic advantage,” the UK government wrote in its 2022 Benefits of Brexit report. But the FSA is struggling with what investors term the “three Rs” – resources, rule changes and risk appetite.
What’s your beef? Whether these products are safe, and the levels of processing involved, are key consumer concerns. Robust regulation is needed. The companies understand that they might only get one crack at the market (think about how genetically modified crops have turned out for Europe). RAU’s Macmillan feels that for now it “makes sense” to understand cultivated meats as ultra-processed foods, “because many different ingredients are used to grow the cells, some of which may make their way into the final food product, and currently the cells then go on for further processing into something recognisable as meat product”.
Why Upside is down. Ad campaigns in the US, where products have been approved, are already exacerbating any pre-conceived fears consumers have. Florida is also considering two bills to criminalise production, sale and consumption of cultivated meat. This has irked companies like Upside Foods, which produce cultivated meats. “The proposed legislation could close the doors on innovative food technologies that hold potential for a more compassionate and sustainable future, and set precedent for other states considering the same,” the company said. “This isn’t just about what’s on our plates – it’s about the freedom to choose our foods, and the protection of advancements in sustainable food.”
